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I’ve been into downtown Nicosia several times with others in the group; it’s about five kilometers from the campus where we’re staying. The “green line” dividing Turkish Cyprus from the Republic of (Greek) Cyprus runs through downtown Nicosia, and we crossed over for a brief stroll on the Turkish side. The Turks control the hills on the north side of Nicosia and have painted a huge Turkish flag (a red crescent and star on a white background) on a hillside overlooking the city. At night the flag is lighted, going on for about eight seconds, then off for several seconds. Then on again. All night long.
Notwithstanding the garish flag, relations between the Turks and the Greeks seem to be improving. The border at the green line consists of a small kiosk where one gets his passport stamped and then walks into the Turkish side. And it is quite easy not to notice the kiosk and wander across the green line without the requisite stamp. Rachid, one of our group, proved this by wandering across the line while looking for an internet café. He was not even aware that there was an international border there. No one said anything to him as he entered the Turkish side, he recounted, until he tried to cross back into the Greek side. Then a Greek border control policewoman stopped him and the following conversation occurred:
PW (policewoman): “Where’s your passport?”
R (Rachid): “What for?”
PW: “For me.”
R: “What?”
PW: “What what?”
R: “I don’t have my passport.”
PW: “What?”
R: “My passport is at the University.”
PW: “What?”
R: “I don’t have my passport.”
PW: “But you’re coming from the Turkish side.”
R: “The Turkish side of what?”
Rachid was thoroughly confused, as he did not even realize he had crossed into the Turkish side and was at the border control station coming back. Anyway, the policewoman waved him through notwithstanding his lack of a passport.
We have no training sessions tomorrow, and thus some of us are again going to the beach in Larnaca. Others will stay here, some of whom will cook a “feast,” they say. Because there’s nothing scheduled for tomorrow there was a party tonight at the common area, put on by Dr. Bill. Cuban, Greek, and Palestinian music was featured, along with various Middle Eastern dances. (Attached is a picture of Dr. Bill cutting a rug with Hedy Epstein.) While it was fun, we would rather be on a boat.